Sparks fly at Dries Van Noten's menswear show

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PARIS — Electricity was in the air — literally — at Dries Van Noten, as a summer thunderstorm and a truck fitted with thumping speakers amped up the voltage at the Belgian designer's already-charged menswear display Thursday.

The crowd of spectators crackled with glee and a touch of fright when a deafening clap of thunder rang out just as Van Noten — a critical favorite known for his ethnic prints in oddly beautiful color combinations — took to the runway for a final bow.

The spring-summer 2010 collection was Van Noten at his best, with perfectly tailored suits in mismatched batik prints and shimmering microfiber trousers hemmed high, at the ankles.

"It was fabulous, very fresh but staying true to the Van Noten spirit," said Takeharu Sato, fashion and market editor at London-based Monocle magazine.

"It wasn't boring," said Sato, adding he was sick of designers playing it safe in times of crisis by churning out marketable suits in solid lights or darks.

Trench coats in blue and beige prints had tie belts that evoked bath robes — one of Van Noten's trademark looks. A pea green and maroon printed sweater vest was paired with shimmering navy trousers, in classic Van Noten this-doesn't-match-but-looks-better-than-if-it-did style.

As the speaker-fitted truck spewed out a soundtrack that sent sound-waves pounding through the crowd, the late afternoon sun shown off puddles of rainwater that had formed on the steps of the Paris stock market — where Thursday's magical show was held — casting the clothing in a ravishing golden glow.

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